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ADVENTURE ON THE CHEESE BOARD

Here are details on fine cheeses to try. Descriptions are adapted from Steve Jenkins' Cheese Primer.

AGED GOUDA (Dutch) cow; semi-hard; tangy and salty, nutty butterscotch flavor.



EXPLORATEUR (French) cow; soft-ripened triple-cream; rich, smooth and buttery.



GRUYERE (Swiss) cow; hard with a nutty aroma and mellow fruity flavor; one of the most versatile of cheeses, it melts well. Comte from France is a worthy alternative.



JACK (American) cow; semi-soft and mild (but not as mild as Monterey Jack); dry Jack is hard with an addicting sweet, nutty flavor.



MOZZARELLA (Italian, American) cow, water buffalo; smooth, tender, springy texture that may be rubbery in overprocessed versions used for pizza; mild, milky taste and texture. A perfect guest, fits in salads and casseroles.



PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO (Italian) cow; extra-hard; pressed, cooked curd usually aged about 2 years; golden color, nubby texture when broken off wheel; slightly sweet and salty with full, fruity aroma and long aftertaste. The ultimate grating cheese and a fine accompaniment t o rich red wines.



PROVOLONE (Italian and American) cow; a chameleon, this cheese is made in various shapes and changes character as it ages; mild and buttery when young; crumbly, sharper and salty with age.



REBLOCHON (French) cow; soft with washed rind; aggressive aroma increases as cheese ripens; sweet, nutty flavor, brie-like texture.



ROQUEFORT (French) sheep; firm but crumbly texture with extensive veins of blue-green mold; intense, tangy and salty.



STILTON (English) cow; veins are bluer than Roquefort; brownish rind; firm with a moist, creamy texture; earthy aroma; tangy, rich flavor; a fine match for sweet wines, especially port.



TOMME DE SAVOIE (French) cow; semi-hard and easy to cut; mild and slightly salty with rustic, nutty nuances that linger. Good choice for a cocktail hour cheese board.



VALENCAY (French) goat; also known as pyramid, may have ash-rubbed rind; firm texture but soft in the mouth; mild goaty sharpness increases as cheese ages. An excellent place to begin an exploration of goat cheeses.



And here are some less widely known cheeses worth seeking out:

AMERICAN FARMSTEAD GOAT CHEESE various textures, from creamy to semi-hard; flavors vary with the seasons and with age.



CABRALES (Spanish) cow and goat blue; semi-hard; crumbly; intense, nutty, tangy.



EPOISSES (French) cow; soft; rind washed with marc de Bourgogne; earthy barnyard aroma, strong flavor.



ALSATIAN MUNSTER (French) cow; 11U4 pound disks; semi-soft washed rind; rind darkens as cheese ripens; soft and creamy when ripe with pungent aroma and a nutty flavor.



FARMHOUSE CHEDDAR (English) cow; look for cloth-covered rind; firm; fruity, grassy aroma; buttery texture; nutty, sometimes sharp taste.



FONTINA d'AOSTA (Italian) cow; perfumed floral aroma; firm texture; complex taste with notes of earth, nuts and honey; a good partner to rich red wine; not to be confused with domestic fontina or fontinella.



MANCHEGO (Spanish) sheep; hard; white interior yellows with age; mild but persistent flavor with nuances of salt and nuts. Look for La Mancha as region of production.



MASCARPONE (Italian) soft, smooth fresh triple-cream; mild, intensely creamy flavor; pour over fruit or use in desserts.



RICOTTA SALATA (Italy) sheep; firm, smooth; mild, milky and slightly sweet; use on salads and vegetables or pasta with tomato sauce.



SAINT-MARCELLIN/BANON (French) cow (Saint Marcellin), cow or goat (Banon); leaf-wrapped small disks with mold-spotted crust; creamy interior; earthy, slightly grapey flavor.



TALEGGIO (Italian) cow; soft or semi-soft, washed rind; bold and earthy, becomes very runny and aromatic when fully ripe.



TRAPPIST-STYLE cow; semi-sweet made from uncooked curds with a washed rind. Pronounced flavor and considerable aroma.



VACHERIN MONT DOOR (Swiss) or VACHERIN DU HAUT-DOUBES (French) cow; very soft; woodsy flavor; a truly mature Vacherin is so runny it is eaten with a spoon; a worthy stand-in is the French Edel de Cleron.